Since taking my first trip onboard the Caledonian Sleeper in November 2020 (read about that here) I’ve become a firm fan of travelling by sleeper train. Not only is there the efficiency of travelling great distances whilst you sleep, there’s the romance of falling asleep in one place and waking up in somewhere new and exciting! Having recently travelled from Brussels to Zagreb by sleeper trains (read about those here, here and here), I thought I’d share with you some general thoughts and tips that may come in use if you’re planning on travelling across Europe by sleeper train.
Know Your Choices
On the vast majority of sleeper trains across Euorpe you have three choices of accommodation, although there are some exceptions to this. The most basic type is a seat, quite often with no extra facilities and although this is the cheapest way to travel, do you really want to travel for 12+ hours overnight in a seat that probably doesn’t recline?
Next up is the Couchette, which is the cheapest type of accommodation that provides you with a bed of some kind. Usually there’s a choice of being in a room of four or six bunks, with a blanket, sheet and pillow provided along with the padded bunk. During the day, the couchette compartments are normal six-berth seated compartments, with bunks then folding down overnight. Other than the bunks, there’s no facilities within the compartments, with just a shared toilet at the end of the carriage. Whilst Couchettes are common on the continent, neither of the sleeper services in the UK (Caledonian Sleeper & Night Riviera) have couchette options.
The final option is a proper sleeper compartment. At a minimum these provide actual mattresses, duvet and pillow whilst the room will also have a wash basin and towels provided. In the UK, sleeper rooms sleep up to 2, whilst on the continent they sleep up to 3, however you can pay a premium to have solo occupancy. Depending on the type of sleeper carriage, the compartments may have a fixed seat separately to the bed, or the lower bunk can be converted into seating for day use. There’s also the option on some routes to pay extra for an ensuite compartment which includes a shower and toilet.
Stock Up on Supplies
Whilst the Caledonian Sleeper and Night Riveria in the UK both have lounge cars and the former even cooks up full meals, Sleeper trains in Europe often have little or no provision for food onboard (other than the breakfast offering). As such, make sure to visit a supermarket at the station prior to boarding to stock up on any snacks or refreshments you might want for the journey. If you’ve got an early-ish departure time, it might be nice to take a picnic and some beers onboard and enjoy the evening scenery as it rolls by the window, but make sure not to have any smelly foods, as you’ve got to sleep with it all night!
Charge Your Entertainment
I’d also recommend making sure you’ve got a charged power bank, especially if you’re sharing a compartment, as there are limited power sockets, and these can often be placed in inconvenient locations. It might also be worth taking an inflatable travel pillow as whilst pillows are provided, they can sometimes be quite flimsy, so if you want some extra comfort take your own.
Most sleeper trains don’t have any onboard WiFi and so if you plan on watching your favourite show before settling down, make sure to download a couple of episodes before you travel. Many streaming services have location limitations, so unless you’ve got a good VPN, you might need to download to a full series before leaving the UK. Of course you could also decide to spend the trip reducing your screen time and take some good books, if so I’d certainly recommend ‘Night Trains: The Rise and Fall of the Sleeper’ by Andrew Martin. Of course, during daylight hours the best entertainment is often looking out of the window!
Pack Sensibly
If you’ve had a long day exploring a city, the last thing you want to be doing when you board a sleeper is unpacking most of your luggage trying to find your toothbrush and pyjamas. I’d recommend having a carrier or tote bag within your luggage that you can put the things you know you’ll need when you first board. Stick this at the top of your bag and then if you’ve got a late departure, you won’t be trying to find your PJs half asleep!
Sleeper compartments are also usually quite compact, so make sure to pack sensibly, leaving the kitchen sink at home. If you’ve got a solo compartment you’ll have a bit more space to play with, but if you’re sharing a three-berth there really will be limited space. Bag storage on European sleepers is often above the door or above head height elsewhere in the room, so you’ll need to be able to lift your luggage up by yourself.
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Enjoy the Wait
The vast majority of sleeper tickets don’t include access to station first class lounges, even if you’re in a premium room or the sleeper is operated by the national operator. As with other things, the exception to this is in the UK, where GWR provide lounge access for sleeper passengers on the Night Riveria and Caledonian Sleeper provide lounge access for *some* of their guests, with access requirements varying by station.
As such, enjoying your wait at the station prior to boarding is key, especially if you’ve had a full day exploring the city! The vast majority of major stations have a restaurant, bar or pub and here you can get a hearty meal and maybe a drink or two before your journey. The Man in Seat 61 has lots of station guides on his website including recommendations of where to wait for your train, and I’d certainly recommend Brasserie Federal at Zurich if you’re catching a train from there.
Flights & Times 